We Moved Our Driveway...

2:03 pm - 68 degrees - watching thunder clouds roll in...

We finally did it! We moved our driveway over and made a parking area that is big enough to turn a trailer around. We have been wanting to do this for a while now, and I am so excited that it's almost done – all we have left is to finish planting out all the dirt areas.

From the main driveway, you were able to see down into our place, the house, the yard, the cars, everything. In the dry summer months, when someone drove by or it got windy, the dust would roll on down into our place. So with moving the driveway over, building a burm across the old driveway entrance and planting it out, it will give us that extra bit of privacy and hopefully keep the dust out.

Last fall, Tony roughed in the new driveway and was able to get some base rock down before winter.

Then in early April Tony started cutting down trees, this was originally to expand our wildfire defensible space around the house {click here}, but it evolved into a much larger project...

After a few of the trees came down and we picked up the mess, we walked around our driveway (new and old) and started tossing around ideas of how we wanted to get rid of the old driveway entrance, and just how everything would lay out and come together. Then Tony suggested that we could take some dirt from over here and put it over there and voila, we could have a really large parking area. I said let's do it!

A few weeks went by and then I came home to a big surprise! Tony was in the excavator and a friend was in a bulldozer and they were moving a TON of dirt! I was giddy with excitement that the driveway project was actually happening!

From the time Tony started moving dirt, it took 3 and a half days (over a week and a half time period) to complete the driveway and parking area project and since Tony was able to reuse the rock from the old driveway in the new parking area, we were able to save about $2500 because we didn't need to buy rock - I really loved that part!

I could not be happier with how this project has turned out, it's even better than I anticipated. Now we just have to finish planting out all of the dirt areas.

New Parking Area

We can park cars/trucks - 6 wide, 2 deep.

Just above the row of boulders on the middle terrace, we planted some Everybearing Strawberries. I know we're taking a bit of a chance having the strawberries out in the open like that, but hopefully the deer will leave the majority of them alone and they will spread and creep around and down the boulder wall.

Everbearing Strawberries

About 6 feet behind the strawberries, is a row of Cascara trees, and right behind those are two rows of Redstem Ceanothus.

Cascara
(Rhamnus purshiana)

Redstem Ceanothus
(Ceanothus sanguineus)

Going up the back wall of the burm that blocks off the entrance to our old driveway, we have several rows of Redstem Ceanothus, followed by several roes of Western White Pine, one row of Rocky Mountain Maples, and two more rows of Western White Pines. On the very top we have a row of Cascara trees and below that, on the main driveway side, is a row of American Cranberries. We will be adding some more mature Vine Maples and maybe a few Noble Firs on the top to help block the view a bit more until everything else starts to grow up.

Western White Pine
(Pinus monticola)

Rocky Mountain Maple
(Acer glabrum)

  

American Cranberry
(Vaccinium macrocarpon)

And finally back towards the house I built a stone retaining wall to make a flower bed where we planted some Kinnikinnick.

Kinnikinnick
(Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)

Current Plant Count:

15 American Cranberries

14 Cascaras

26 Ceanothus' 

50 Everbearing Strawberries

7 Kinnikinnick

15 Rocky Mountain Maples

43 Western White Pines

In addition to all of the baby plants we are putting in, we're also going to throw down more grass seed to help stabilize all of the dirt. I am so excited, I can't wait for everything to grow up. 

Still Need To Plant/Transplant:

Evergreen Huckleberry

Kinnikinnick

Noble Fir

Oregon Sunshine

Pacific Crabapple

Ponderosa Pine

Thimbleberry

Vine Maple

Let's Get The Gardening Started...

9:06 pm - 52 degrees - clear, calm night...

For the past two evenings, when the sun starts to set behind the mountain, I have gone inside smelling like dirt.  Actually the kids smell like dirt also.  The kids have been running around, playing, enjoying the sunshine, and somehow manage to get covered in dirt from head to toe.  While I have been busy potting plants, I am only covered in dirt up to my elbows.  I love Springtime.

Good news...I am so excited to start planting!  Not so good news...all the plants I ordered (from various locations) came at the same time.  Now I'm a tad bit overwhelmed, trying to get all 236 plants in pots or in the ground.

So far I have...

---55 of the 120 bare root strawberry plants placed 1 gallon pots.

---20 of the 75 huckleberry starts in 1 gallon pots.

---still have to find a location and plant the 4 red and 2 golden raspberry starts.

---and 35 various bulbs to plant, but need to remove the grass out of the flowerbed first.

Hopefully I will have everything in pots or in the ground by the end of the weekend.

Berry Garden...

12:47 pm - 59 degrees - overcast...

Just imagine walking outside your door and picking fruit from your berry patch to enjoy with breakfast in the morning, or whip up a berry pie, or can delicious jams and jellies!  Ooooh the possibilities!

Having my own berry garden has been a dream of mine for a very long time – since I was a little girl actually.  Whenever we would go to our Grandma’s house, one of our favorite things to do was going into the backyard and eat the fresh strawberries and raspberries that she had growing back there.  Fresh berries straight off the vine are just delicious!

To start my berry garden I have Reka blueberries, Honeoye strawberries, Caroline raspberries and Anne raspberries.  These are all winter hardy varieties, which is what we need since we’re somewhere between zones 5 and 6.

I purchased four Reka blueberry plants and planted them yesterday.  Reka’s are an early season blueberry variety bred in New Zealand.  It’s one of the fastest growing and most adaptable varieties.  They have a great flavor too.

I planted the blueberries along the south side
of the fire pit area.

Ollie didn't think I should be planting
blueberries at that time.

I purchased twelve Honeoye Strawberry plants, but I think I need to go back and get some more.  Honeoye’s combine winter hardiness, high productivity, good appearance and color, together with an excellent, firm, large-sized berry.  The berries are easy to pick and produce high yields over a long berry season, making it a very consistent berry producer.  They also freeze well.

I haven’t planted the strawberries yet because Tony hasn’t had a chance to make me some planters.  Instead of planting them straight into the ground, I wanted to try planting them vertical. 

This is what I want Tony to make for me so I can plant my strawberries.
{photo source: wonderfuldiy.com}

A friend gave me a wheelbarrow load of raspberry starts which I believe are Caroline Raspberries.  They are a large berry, with a rich, full and intense raspberry flavor, and they freeze well.

I just ordered 5 Anne Raspberry starts since I couldn’t find them anywhere locally.  I discovered these delicious golden raspberries last year at a local farmer’s market and fell in love.  Anne’s are a sunshine-colored berry that has a unique sweet taste unlike any other raspberry.  Some say it’s like crossing a raspberry and a green grape, while others describe them as having a hint of apricot flavor.  Anne’s excellent size, appearance, and very sweet flavor make it an excellent addition to any berry garden.

Anne Raspberries
{photo source: scenichillfarm.com}

I haven’t planted any raspberry bushes yet because I still have to figure out where I’m going to put them and then I need to make a trellis of some sort for the bushes to grow on.  Not sure what style of trellis to make yet though.

{photo source: oocities.org}

I bet you can guess what I'll be working on this weekend... berry planters and a trellis.

Backyard Herb Garden...

6:55 pm - 43 degrees - cloudy... 

Every year I have grand gardening plans.  But then life gets in the way and I get distracted by things that “need” to be done instead of the things that I “want” to get done.

But this year nothing is going to stop me; I’m going to put in a backyard herb garden. 

When a recipe calls for fresh basil, I want to be able to skip the poor substitute of dried basil.  A last-minute dash to the grocery store for some overpriced wilted basil is out of the question since it would be over an hour and a half round trip.  I want to be able to walk outside and pluck a few tender leaves off of the basil plant growing in my very own herb garden whenever the need arises.

I have the location picked out that fits the basic requirements of a successful herb garden - well-drained soil that is neutral to slightly acid and at least five hours of sunlight a day.

I have the herbs that I want picked out - Basil, Chamomile, Chives, Garlic, Lavender, Mint, and Parsley.

Now I just have to figure out what design/layout I want.  Below are some pictures of backyard herb gardens I found online to use as inspiration...

photo source: megahowto.com

photo source: harfay.com

photo source: makinghomebase.com

photo source: motherearthnews.com

photo source: savingbydesign.com

photo source: twopeasandtheirpod.com

Self-Sufficient Living - Root Cellars...

12:13 pm - 48 degrees - light rain and fog...

You stroll out in to the garden, picking ripe fruits and vegetables, knowing that come February you’ll still be enjoying their freshness.  For those of us attracted to the romantic aspects of self-sufficient life, this is an appealing scenario and one that we’re seriously looking into.  After searching the internet and Pinterest – this is what I found out...

{photo source: pinterest.com}

Root cellars, the ancient technology that enables the long-term storage of your garden’s bounty, are currently experiencing a rediscovery, but not merely because of the pleasures of eating self-grown food, but also because of the actual possibility of reducing expenses and providing for significant food storage in times of potential trouble.

Here is a little history on root cellars... Native Australians were the first people to take advantage of the cooling and insulative properties of buried foodstuffs in the earth.  Records indicate that over 40,000 years ago they grew large amounts of yams and developed the technique of burying their produce in order to preserve it for future use.  In the process, they also discovered the phenomenon of fermentation, and ever since, alcoholic beverages have been a large portion of those products stored in underground repositories.

Underground storage facilities from the Iron Age have been discovered, and the Etruscans commonly buries their immature wine, but the actual use of walk-in root cellars as a means to prolong the freshness of fruit and vegetable crops was probably an invention that occurred in 17^th century England.  It might seem surprising that the great civilizations of China and Egypt did not develop root cellars, but the Chinese were the masters of food preservation via salting, pickling and the additions of spices; the Egyptians, residents of an arid environment, were the masters at drying food.  It took the right combination of cool winters and hungry Englishmen to finally invent the concept of root cellars.

Early American root cellar.  {photo source: pinterest.com}

Certainly the most notable practitioners of root cellar arts were the early colonists that arrived in North America from the United Kingdom.  The eastern halves of America and Canada contain thousands of old root cellars, and the small Newfoundland town of Elliston actually claims the title of “Root Cellar Capital of the World,” and boasts of over 135 root cellars, some dating back 200 years.

What exactly is a root cellar?  A root cellar is a structure built underground or partially underground and used to store vegetables, fruits, and nuts or other foods.  The basis of all root cellars is their ability to keep food cool.  They were, essentially, the first refrigerators.  A well-insulated root cellar can keep the food inside 40 degrees cooler than the summertime temperatures outside.  This coolness also has benefits during the winter, as maintaining food at a temperature just slightly above freezing has the effect of slowing deterioration and rot.  Temperatures inside the home, even in basements, are noticeably warmer, so food stored inside the house have a tendency to spoil much more rapidly than food stored in a cooler root cellar.  Temperatures above 45 degrees F cause toughness in most stored vegetables, and encourage undesirable sprouting and considerably more rapid spoilage.

The temperature in a root cellar is never uniform.  The temperature near the ceiling is usually 10 degrees warmer than elsewhere in the cellar, so the ceiling area is therefore appropriate for placement of produce that tolerates warmer temperatures well, such as onions, garlic, and shallots.

What can you plan on storing in your root cellar once you build it?  Certainly, many of us probably have visions of root cellars in the 19^th century, packed with bushels of apples and sacks full of potatoes.  Today’s root cellars are really not much different, and potatoes and apples are two eminently storable garden products.  But the problem with that pair is that they don’t really go well together.  Apples have a tendency to emit ethylene gas, which causes problems for potatoes stored nearby, and will also make any exposed carrots or other root crops bitter.  As a matter of fact, many fruits, including plums, pears, and peaches, and some vegetables, such as tomatoes, cabbage and Chinese cabbage, are also notorious ethylene producers.

Luckily, there are ways around this problem.  A good root cellar has a variety of shelves, some higher than others, and some closer to the air vents.  Placing the ethylene producers up high and nearer the exit vents has a tendency to move harmful gases away from produce stored on the floor below.  Many root crops are also regularly stored in boxes of loose soil or sawdust, further insulating them from their neighbors’ emissions.  Some produce, like cabbages and onions, often emit odors that can taint the flavors of other vegetables, as well as fruits, so finding high, remote corners for these pungent items is a good idea too.

One of the key control features of a root cellar is the set of air vents that allow air to enter and exit the cellar.  These vents not only allow a greater amount of temperature adjustment than available to a static space, but the air circulation can also be a valuable tool to deal with the ethylene gases and odors produced by a mixed assortment of fruits and vegetables. 

Inside the cellar, the arrangement of shelves should allow for generous distances between them.  The shelves should also be kept a few inches away from the walls to encourage greater air circulation.  Materials placed on the floor should be raised a few inches by small blocks or racks.

The down side to root cellars at the pests.  Rodents are the single most common pest problem for food stored in root cellars.  Installing metal wire mesh in common entry points, such as open vents, is a good idea, as is a frequent trapping program.  The next most vexing problem for stored food is plain old rot.  The saying that “one rotten apple with spoil the lot” is quite true in this situation, so care should be taken to remove any spoiling produce or other foodstuff.  In general though, the lower temperatures will combat the mold and bacteria problems that are common in warm, wet conditions.

{photo source: pinterest.com}

{photo source: pinterest.com}

{photo source: pinterest.com}

Food You Can Store In Your Root Cellar

APPLES – store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 2-7 months depending on variety

BEANS (dried) - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 1 year

BEETS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 3-5 months

BROCCOLI - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 1-2 weeks

BRUSSEL SPROUTS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 3-5 weeks

CABBAGE - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 3-4 months

CARROTS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 4-6 months

GARLIC - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 5-8 months

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 1-2 months

LEEKS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 3-4 months

ONIONS - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 5-8 months

PARSNIPS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 1-2 months

PEARS - store at 30 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 2-3 months

POTATOES - store between 40-45 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 4-6 months

PUMPKINS - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 5-6 months

RUTABAGAS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 2-4 months

SQUASH - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 4-6 months

SWEET POTATOES - store between 55-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 4-6 months

TOMATILLOS - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 1-2 months

TOMATOES - store between 50-60 degrees – 60-70 percent humidity – shelf life: 1-2 months for green; 4-6 months for varieties intended for winter storage

TURNIPS - store at 32 degrees – 90-95 percent humidity – shelf life: 4-6 months

Garden Dreaming...

12:05 pm - 29 degrees - snowing and windy...

This time of year, what could be better than sitting in a comfy chair, warm and snug inside while it’s snowing outside and looking through new seed catalogs, dreaming and planning for the new season of growth?

I have started flipping through those shiny, colorful pages full of pictures of ripe fruit, veggies and herbs, and pouring over tiny type.  A new growing season is like a clean slate – the chance to start over... and it all starts with the seed catalogs!

Now that I have flipped through the catalogs and made my ‘Garden Wish List’, it is time to plan out the garden.  What grows best next to each other (aka Companion Planting)... how much do we really want to grow of that particular item... how much space will everything need... etc.

Our ‘Garden Wish List’ for this year:

Blueberries, Carrots, Corn, Cucumbers, Garlic, Green Onions, Lettuce (several varieties), Parsley, Potatoes, Pumpkins, Raspberries, Red Onions, Rhubarb, Strawberries, Squash, Sweet Basil, Tomatoes, Walla Walla Onions, and Zucchini...at least that’s the list so far.

We are also looking at building a cattle panel greenhouse this year!  We would like a greenhouse and this is an inexpensive way to get one.  Here are some pictures of cattle panel greenhouses...

photo source: motherearthnews.com

photo source: peakprosperity.com

photo source: squarefoot.creatingforum.com

Composting...

2:38 pm - 42 degrees - overcast...

We live in the Pacific Northwest.  Around here the word “composting” may as well be synonymous with “recycling”. 

Composting is nature’s way of recycling.  It is a method of converting garden trash, kitchen scraps, and other organic wastes into humus – a partly decayed form of organic matter that is an important ingredient of rich soil.

Composting doesn’t have to be difficult, nor does it require a strong back, large acreage, livestock waste or expensive bins.  There are many variations in composting techniques, but the basic idea is to let the biological action of bacteria and fungi heat the interior of the compost pile to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, killing week seeds and disease organisms.  The most efficient way to produce compost is in a bin or container to keep the material from spilling out.

What Belongs In Your Compost Bin --- You know you can compost fruit and vegetable scraps from your kitchen, but there are dozens of organic-based items that can also go into your compost bin that you may not have thought of.

-      Coffee grounds
-      Coffee filters
-      Teabags
-      Crushed eggshells
-      Paper bags and cardboard, including cereal boxes
-      Stale bread, cereal, and plain crackers
-      Expired herbs and spices
-      Hair from your brush, and from your pet’s brushes
-      Dropping from pet rabbits, chickens, cows and horses
-      Paper roll tubes
-      Freezer burned vegetables and fruit
-      Old bills and other shredded documents
-      Newspaper
-      Houseplants that didn’t make it
-      Wood ash

 

Any paper items from your home or office, so long as the paper is not glossy and is free from staples, paperclips or plastic, can be shredded or torn up and placed into the compost bin.  The smaller the pieces, the faster it will break down inside of the bin.  Even your Christmas tree can be run through a wood chipper and then added to your compost bin.

What Doesn’t Belong In Your Compost Bin --- We’ve covered what should go into your compost pile or bin, what shouldn’t is just as important, if not more important, as the possibility of introducing pathogens to your soil could be dangerous to you and your family for years.  Most importantly, chemicals or metals of any kind, should never be incorporated into your compost or soil.  Here are some other, less obvious, items to exclude from composting.

-      Meat of all kinds
-      Dairy products
-      Fecal matter from dogs, cats, pigs or reptiles
-      Fats, grease, lard or oils
-      Diseased plants
-      Dryer lint
-      Contents of your vacuum bags
-      Glossy paper, including newspaper inserts
-      Yard clippings or trimming treated with pesticides
-      Coal or charcoal ash

There’s some debate amongst composting experts when it comes to pasta and bread items.  The belief is that while these types of items are typically fine to add to your compost bin, the fact is they’re more likely to attract scavenging animals such as rats and raccoons.  However, a tightly sealed or raised off of the ground bin, will reduce the number of visitors.

You may be tempted to throw in diseased plants but that would be opening yourself up to all kinds of trouble later on down the line.  The bacteria or virus responsible for the disease will likely survive the composting process, which means you could infect your entire garden when you spread your compost the following year.

Regularly aerating or turning over the contents of your compost bin will ensure air has access to the decaying organic matter.  The air will help prevent mold from setting in, and will also work to accelerate the decomposition process by providing oxygen to the thousands of tiny organisms doing all the work.

Some gardeners prefer to have two or more compost bins, at varying stages of the process, in order to ensure a steady supply of compost is at their fingertips, at all times.  Trust me, the first time you scoop and spread your very own dark, rich compost, and better yet, see what it does for your garden, you too will understand our deep love of compost here in the Pacific Northwest.

Five Types of Compost Bins That Turn Trash Into Treasure

Sunken Garbage Can --- makes a convenient compost bin when space is limited.  Punch holes in bottom of can for drainage and fill with alternating layers of material.  Cover with screening to keep out insects and scavengers.  Perforated drainpipe in center provides aeration.
 

Photo Source: Back To Basics

 
Screened Compost Bin --- is made of chicken wire and light lumber.  It is easily disassembled for turning compost.  Two L-shaped sections fasten with hooks and eyes.  To use, simply unfasten hooks and eyes, remove sides, and set up in position to receive the turned compost.

Photo Source: Back To Basics

Wire Mesh Cylinder --- is one of the simplest of all compost bins to construct.  Use mesh with heavy gauge wire; support with stakes driven into the ground.  Often used for autumn leaves, it can handle any type of compost.

Photo Source: Back To Basics

Rotating Drum --- tumbles compost each time drum is turned, mixing and aerating it.  Material is loaded through a hatch.  These compact, durable units are available commercially and can also be built at home.
 

Photo Source: Back To Basics

Three-Stage Bin --- turns out a near-continuous supply of compost.  Positioned sided by side makes turning compost easy.
 

Photo Source: Back To Basics

We will be composting using the three-stage bin style.  Instead of making bins, we’re going to be using old orchard crates that we got for free from a fruit processing plant.
 

 

We managed to get 21 orchard boxes on the flatbed trailer...
this will be my new raised garden

Over the weekend I got the first bin in place and started my compost pile!
 

In fact we’re going to be using those old orchard crates to make a raised garden on that flat area behind my compost bins (separate post coming soon).