We live in the Pacific Northwest. Around here the word “composting” may as well be synonymous with “recycling”.
Composting is nature’s way of recycling. It is a method of converting garden trash, kitchen scraps, and other organic wastes into humus – a partly decayed form of organic matter that is an important ingredient of rich soil.
Composting
doesn’t have to be difficult, nor does it require a strong back, large acreage,
livestock waste or expensive bins. There
are many variations in composting techniques, but the basic idea is to let the
biological action of bacteria and fungi heat the interior of the compost pile
to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, killing week seeds and disease organisms. The most efficient way to produce compost is
in a bin or container to keep the material from spilling out.
What
Belongs In Your Compost Bin --- You know you can compost fruit and vegetable
scraps from your kitchen, but there are dozens of organic-based items that can
also go into your compost bin that you may not have thought of.
- Coffee grounds- Coffee filters
- Teabags
- Crushed eggshells
- Paper bags and cardboard, including cereal boxes
- Stale bread, cereal, and plain crackers
- Expired herbs and spices
- Hair from your brush, and from your pet’s brushes
- Dropping from pet rabbits, chickens, cows and horses
- Paper roll tubes
- Freezer burned vegetables and fruit
- Old bills and other shredded documents
- Newspaper
- Houseplants that didn’t make it
- Wood ash
Any
paper items from your home or office, so long as the paper is not glossy and is
free from staples, paperclips or plastic, can be shredded or torn up and placed
into the compost bin. The smaller the
pieces, the faster it will break down inside of the bin. Even your Christmas tree can be run through a
wood chipper and then added to your compost bin.
What
Doesn’t Belong In Your Compost Bin --- We’ve covered what should go into your
compost pile or bin, what shouldn’t is just as important, if not more
important, as the possibility of introducing pathogens to your soil could be
dangerous to you and your family for years.
Most importantly, chemicals or metals of any kind, should never be
incorporated into your compost or soil.
Here are some other, less obvious, items to exclude from composting.
- Meat of all kinds- Dairy products
- Fecal matter from dogs, cats, pigs or reptiles
- Fats, grease, lard or oils
- Diseased plants
- Dryer lint
- Contents of your vacuum bags
- Glossy paper, including newspaper inserts
- Yard clippings or trimming treated with pesticides
- Coal or charcoal ash
There’s some debate amongst composting experts when it comes to pasta and bread items. The belief is that while these types of items are typically fine to add to your compost bin, the fact is they’re more likely to attract scavenging animals such as rats and raccoons. However, a tightly sealed or raised off of the ground bin, will reduce the number of visitors.
You
may be tempted to throw in diseased plants but that would be opening yourself
up to all kinds of trouble later on down the line. The bacteria or virus responsible for the
disease will likely survive the composting process, which means you could
infect your entire garden when you spread your compost the following year.
Regularly
aerating or turning over the contents of your compost bin will ensure air has
access to the decaying organic matter.
The air will help prevent mold from setting in, and will also work to
accelerate the decomposition process by providing oxygen to the thousands of
tiny organisms doing all the work.
Some
gardeners prefer to have two or more compost bins, at varying stages of the
process, in order to ensure a steady supply of compost is at their fingertips,
at all times. Trust me, the first time
you scoop and spread your very own dark, rich compost, and better yet, see what
it does for your garden, you too will understand our deep love of compost here
in the Pacific Northwest.
Five
Types of Compost Bins That Turn Trash Into Treasure
Sunken
Garbage Can --- makes a convenient compost bin when space is limited. Punch holes in bottom of can for drainage and
fill with alternating layers of material.
Cover with screening to keep out insects and scavengers. Perforated drainpipe in center provides
aeration.
Photo Source: Back To Basics |
Screened Compost Bin --- is made of chicken wire and light lumber. It is easily disassembled for turning compost. Two L-shaped sections fasten with hooks and eyes. To use, simply unfasten hooks and eyes, remove sides, and set up in position to receive the turned compost.
Photo Source: Back To Basics |
Wire Mesh Cylinder --- is one of the simplest of all compost bins to construct. Use mesh with heavy gauge wire; support with stakes driven into the ground. Often used for autumn leaves, it can handle any type of compost.
Photo Source: Back To Basics |
Rotating Drum --- tumbles compost each time drum is turned, mixing and aerating it. Material is loaded through a hatch. These compact, durable units are available commercially and can also be built at home.
Photo Source: Back To Basics |
Three-Stage
Bin --- turns out a near-continuous supply of compost. Positioned sided by side makes turning compost
easy.
Photo Source: Back To Basics |
We
will be composting using the three-stage bin style. Instead of making bins, we’re going to be
using old orchard crates that we got for free from a fruit processing plant.
We managed to get 21 orchard boxes on the flatbed trailer... this will be my new raised garden |
Over
the weekend I got the first bin in place and started my compost pile!
In fact we’re going to be using those old orchard crates to make a raised garden on that flat area behind my compost bins (separate post coming soon).